Well, we did it again, in and out of the Grand Canyon ... North Rim to South Rim ... backpacking 5 days. Almost the same crew as six years ago, however, this time it was considerably cooler, making it much easier and far more enjoyable.
Day 0 | Getting to the North Rim ... As we did the first time, we all drove to Flagstaff, then to the South Rim and left our vehicles in the Grand Canyon Back Country parking lot. Most folks took the opportunity to weigh their packs ... this time, everybody was within tolerances ... no hair dryers and big bottles of shampoo and conditioner :-) Then we took our truck with everybody's gear and loaded everybody into the 12 passenger van that we had rented to shuttle us around to the North Rim. We spent the night at the Kaibab Lodge, which we all decided was an excellent choice, we'd stay there again in the future.
Day 1 | North Rim to Cottonwood Campground ... In the morning we gathered at the Kaibab Lodge dinning room for our last good meal, cooked and cleaned up by somebody else. The loaded up and headed out to the North Kaibab trail head. From the trail head it is approximately 7 miles and over a mile of descent to Cottonwood campground for our first night in the canyon. The first day is a real beating on the knees and leg muscles, with anywhere from a 40 to 50 pound pack and the large steps and the descent. Everybody was very happy to make it to Cottonwood, and everybody made it in much quicker, easier time than the last time. Six years ago it was 115 degrees, this year it probably was at the worst 90 degrees. What a difference when it isn't so hot, plus we were in shade much of the day. Because of the lateness of the season there was also the possiblity of not having piped in drinking water, but because of the warm spell, we were there on one of the very last days of water.
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| Click on Photo for Day1 photos |
Day 2 | Cottonwood to Bright Angel Campground ... We all got up around 6am and were headed out of camp by 8am and headed to Bright Angel Campground at Phantom Ranch. This is another 7 mile day, but the easiest day. Because you descend to much on the first day, most of this day is 'gentle' up and down with only a couple of hills to start the day. Then into The Box (tight vertical canyon) for the last few miles to Phantom Ranch. This day was mostly in shade with gentle breezes and a comfortable 90 degrees at the high. When coming in from the north you pass through the main portion of Phantom Ranch and then it is about another half mile to bridge that takes you across Bright Angel Creek to the campground. And, naturally, the Group sites are at the far end of the camp ground, which probably adds another quarter mile. But we all arrived in fairly good shape, and in a decent time. The blisters really started to show up this day, but they were probably all earned on Day 1.
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| Click on Photo for Day2 photos |
Day 3 | Bright Angel Campground Recovery Day ... This is the day to rest, relax and recover. Attend a couple of Ranger Presentations (Grand Canyon Geology, Kolb brothers and California Condors) and get the best lemonade in the world at the Canteen. If you are lucky enough, you have already reserved a meal at the Canteen ... either a breakfast or an evening meal. The meals are expensive, but they are oh so good. We got a couple of breakfasts each morning, so we were able to start the day out right. We also ended the day with a little 2 mile Black Bridge and Silver Bridge loop hike, ending at the Silver Bridge to view the end of the sun light. That deep in a canyon you don't really have a traditional sunset, it just goes dark.
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| Click on Photo for Day3 photos |
Day 4 | Bright Angel to Indian Garden Campground ... Now, for the day that the first timers really dread, the climb out. But what we've found out, is that Day 1 is the worst. Day 4 and 5 are all about climbing out, but it is 'just' muscle work. It doesn't beat you up the way that the descent does. You may slow down, end up taking a lot of breaks, but you keep going. Again, we spent most of the day in the shade going down the River Trail, left turn at Pipe Creek to start up the Bright Angel Trail, and right away with Devil's Corkscrew switch backs, then the long slog around to Bright Angel Creek. Just like the last time, we had a gentle little rain/drizzle, it actually rained a little harder last time, but there was enough for us to cover up our backpacks. And it was considerably cooler now as well. We met several very nice fellow campers and just rested up and for the final slog up to the South Rim the next day.
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| Click on Photo for Day4 photos |
Day 5 | Indian Garden to South Rim ... Now, the final ascent to the South Rim, and it starts with Jacob's Ladder switch backs, and a whole lotta other switches backs. It's nice to see 3 Mile Rest House ... we took a back off break there and re-grouped. Then again at Mile and a Half Rest House we took another back off break and re-grouped. Both Day 4 and 5 are 5 mile hikes, but up hill with heavy backpacks sure slows you down. Plus with the elevation gain, you also loose oxygen, which makes it just that much tougher. I really feel sorry for the tourists that just don't know any better, and that ignore the warnings ... it takes twice as long to come out as it takes to get in. But, eventually, you take the final switch back, look off to the east and you see the Kolb brothers studio, the final tunnel and you know you have made it. It is a great site. As part of our celebration we have started a little tradition (at least for those that don't head back to Phoenix the same day) ... we spend a night at the South Rim. More importantly, we head over to the Arizona Room restaurant and have an excellent meal. Everybody that goes to the Arizona Room wants a table by the windows so that they can see the sun set in the Grand Canyon. Not us, we've seen it up close an very personal ... a back table for us is just fine :-)
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| Click on Photo for Day5 photos |
Day 6 | Heading Home ... Then the next day we head home, kind of in disbelief ... did we really just do that, were we really in the Grand Canyon for 5 days. All we have to do is feel our sore muscles and count the toenails that we'll be losing ... that reminds you that you reeeeeally did it. Plus the photographs tell the story as well ... enjoy them ... we sure did enjoy being there to take them :-)
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